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(The original German article was printed in the Swiss newspaper NZZ)
Unknown South Africa – tour buses not welcome
Table Mountain, Waterfront, Gold Reef City – you won’t find touristic attractions of the same calibre in the South African Eastern Cape. The province is less glamorous, but all the more genial and multi-layered. Here is some advice on how to explore this province in a luxurious way and on a budget.
Port Elizabeth, the best known city of the Eastern Cape, can’t really live up to other South African metropolises due to its lacking charisma. However, it is the ideal starting point to discover the second largest province of South Africa. There are indeed a few discoveries to be made, especially historically: No less than nine important frontier battles took place in this settler area. The settlers and the Xhosas fought brutal wars which took a toll on the settlers.
One of the victims of colonisation was the rich diversity of wildlife. The settlers tried to turn the land into farmland - very unsuccessfully though. Instead they proved themselves as hunters which had a devastating effect on the local wildlife stock. A tragedy for the formerly most important wildlife area of Africa! Several species were eradicated. In the area of today’s Addo Elephant National Park only seven elephants remained in 1931.
New initiatives were desperately needed. Today the public and private sector try their best to turn the former farmland into a suitable environment for the wildlife species which used to occur here. A long process!
On a positive note, the Addo Park can present a first success story with 450 elephants in the park today, and the plans are even more ambitious: They want to establish a 360 000 hectare Big 7 mega reserve with an additional 120 000 hectare marine belt.
Alternative to Kruger Park
The Addo Park is a malaria free alternative to Kruger. In high season Addo is so popular that you get to experience the elephants at the water holes from the back of a queue of cars if you are unlucky – just like in Kruger.
The affordable rest camps are ideal for self-catering travelers and very popular with South Africans. If you are looking for a more private and exclusive safari experience it will cost you quite a bit more but it is worth it: The private game reserves in the malaria free Eastern Cape offer you a safari stay of sheer luxury. Imagine having breakfast on a lodge terrace while the wild elephants play with each other at the nearby waterhole only 20 meters away, and with no fence between you and the mighty mammals. This is one of the highlights of Gorah Elephant Camp, which is situated in a private concession of the Addo Park.
The lodge is a member of the exclusive Relais & Châteaux collection. Another member is Kwandwe Private Game Reserve near the historical town Grahamstown. Relais & Châteaux offers the “Route du Bonheur”: guests can travel from one five star hotel to the next. Kwandwe is a 22000 hectare game reserve and one of the true conservation success stories of the Eastern Cape, due to strict conservation rules whereby the animals always come first. At Kwandwe the guests can enjoy a safari adventure which is not just first class but also very educational.
Safari for beginners
However, if you are looking for Big 5 safaris with huge herds of wildlife in Serengeti or Okavango Delta style you will be disappointed. The malaria free private game reserves are ideal as a safari ending after a trip from Cape Town to the Garden Route, for safari beginners and families.
The coastal stretch is called Sunshine Coast and situated at the inviting warm Indian Ocean a visit must be worth it. The small coastal village of Kenton-on-Sea between East London and Port Elizabeth attracts visitors with 300 guaranteed sunshine days a year; the largest moving coastal dune field in the Southern hemisphere with golden beaches.
The very popular Oyster Box Beach House offers the most spectacular sea view. Budget travellers are offered a big choice of private accommodation in Kenton-on-Sea. For Big 5 safaris in the medium price category a Big 5 safari at the nearby Kariega Game Reserve and Sibuya Game Reserve is recommended. Sibuya is the only exclusively boat accessible private game reserve in South Africa.
Travelling further East; East London has more to offer to its residents, consisting of a growing number of wealthy black South Africans, than to its visitors. No wonder one of the most sophisticated and glamorous shopping malls of South Africa - Hemingways Casino Resort - opened its doors here a short while ago.
Leaving East London the area becomes wilder and wilder. The former Transkei, today known as the Wild Coast, is challenging for travellers. It is strongly advised to drive slower should you wish to avoid goats and cows as surprising passengers.
From shepherd to president
The hills are filled with the numerous characteristic round huts of the Xhosa people. As picturesque as the huts might look from far away, a closer look reveals the extreme poverty. It seems like a fairytale that Nelson Mandela, once a shepherd from one of these inconspicuous villages, Qunu, became an Apartheid fighter, prisoner, Nobel Peace Price winner and president of South Africa. The Nelson Mandela Museum in his home town Qunu illustrates the moving life of the South African icon.
Adventurous Drives
All the roads that connect the coast with the N2 highway are in bad condition and full of potholes, especially the tarred roads. These potholes can reach the size of a small car. It is therefore recommended to drive carefully and slow down. A solid 4x4 is ideal for the Wild Coast.
The road adventure pays off as soon as you reach the coast. The beauty of the pristine landscape with its grassy hills and rough cliffs leaves you breathless, it is a true Garden of Eden. It is no surprise that this area attracts so many hikers and outdoor fans. One of the highlights are coastal hikes lasting several days. And every winter the spectacular Sardine Run passes along the Wild Coast. This worldwide unique phenomena of millions of fish moving into other waters can be watched from the shore.
The Wild Coast lives up to its name
Commercial tourism has not been extensively established in this area - which is not a bad thing. Imagine a tour bus trying to get around the potholes. Hotel chains are non-existent. The Wild Coast mainly attracts South African travelers as the accommodation is more affordable than in the rest of the country. Only a few establishments can offer a good international standard. International travelers are advised to prepare for their Wild Coast trip very carefully.
Recommended accommodation: Crawford’s Cabins, Cintsa Bay, and Umngazi River Bungalows and Mbotyi River Lodge, both near Port St. Johns. For a more rustic experience try a stay in a Xhosa hut at the Swell Tours Guest Lodge in Mdumbi or the Buccaneers Lodge & Backpackers in Cintsa.
Once you have made it back to the N2 safely you will not only be relieved but realize that you have discovered one of the last true paradises on earth. Mum’s the word!
Good to know:
Journey: Domestic flights to Port Elizabeth, East London and Umtata
Health: Malaria free area, ideal for safaris
Best time to travel: October – April to combine safaris with a beach holiday
Ideally combined with a trip to Cape Town and the Garden Route and for outdoor fans. The nights of the South African winter are mild and the safari experience cool, in summer temperatures don’t rise above 29 C.
Travel advice: Gisela Piercey has been living in the Eastern Cape for six years and is happy to offer you first hand travel advice. You can contact her through her website at www.africantwisttravel.com.
Recommended accommodation: relaischateaux.com, theoysterboxbeachhouse.com, kariega.co.za, sibuya.co.za, sanparks.co.za, umngazi.co.za, mbotyi.co.za |
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